Ten years on; Marylebone Farmers Market, where did the time go?

The day Marylebone farmers market opened in June 2003 the rain came down, but people came too, and have kept coming ever since.

TJ Tanners

Before we opened, The Ham and High took a picture of me standing in the empty car park. Hard to believe now, but ten years ago not many shops opened their doors on Sundays on Marylebone High Street. Gradually as the market became more successful, Sunday opening became the norm. Blagdens fishmongers were not happy about the market opening, and couldn’t open on Sundays. Very sadly, they eventually closed. Fish Works opened on the high street (including on Sundays). Ginger Pig opened next to La Fromagerie.

Muddy Boots, now alas outgrown us and moved on to bigger and better things

Many shops were invited onto the street by Howard de Walden Estate, Roccoco Chocolate being one. Chantel Coady founder of Roccoco told me;

‘Ten years ago the main reason we opened our second store was the singular approach adopted by HDW: and the way they strategically manage the Marylebone Estate. They have a clear vision about which retailers they want to see in their stops, and a big focus on artisan food, as well as having supported the London Farmers market on Sundays in the car park on Moxon St.’

Chantel is taking the opportunity to move to Moxon Street. Could this be because of the farmers market?

She explained;
‘As our lease expires at 45 Marylebone High Street, we have been offered a great opportunity to move into the “Foodie Quarter” to be alongside the fabulous Fromagerie, Ginger Pig and the Sunday Market. We can’t wait to be there. Our Sunday hours reflect those of the Farmer’s Market, and we know there are always lots of people around for that great weekly event.

Brett Wolstencroft from Daunt books told me that ‘the Farmer’s Market transformed Sundays and Marylebone High Street into a leisurely day out for families. As a focal point, it holds people in the area to eat, browse and spend money.’
Even Waitrose told us that their takings improved on Sundays.

I wanted to promote the market as the largest in London. There may be larger markets in the UK but in London where space is at a premium, 40 stalls of mostly primary products; farmers selling direct isn’t bad. And our rules are strict. No reselling, no wholesalers and anyone making jams, soups or pies have to use locally sourced ingredients. The label stuck, and it’s still regarded as our flagship market.

Our aims at London Farmers’ Markets haven’t changed;

• To supply Londoners with fresh, seasonal, high-quality food 
• To provide markets for small and medium-sized farms
• To encourage humane, organic, and environmentally sound farming
• To rediscover lost varieties and rare breeds
• To emphasize flavour over cosmetic perfection in fruit and vegetables
• To campaign on food and farming issues, such as supporting small abattoirs

We strive hard to keep our farmers markets just that; a place to shop for ingredients, rather than a place to come to just eat hot food. We want you to arrive with empty shopping bags and leave weighted down with bags stuffed full with whatever looks good that day; the ingredients for meals for your week ahead. You might also be tempted by half a dozen oysters for breakfast from Simon our Norfolk fisherman. And once we gave the Rooney brothers the idea of selling mushroom sandwiches they’ve never looked back. But cooked food will never take over as it’s done at other markets in London.

William Rooney's mushroom sandwiches in the making

Some of the stall holders are so popular, customers queue before the market opens in order to bag the best; Simon Long the Norfolk fisherman is a key example. Margaret Kay lives in Cato Street with her husband. They’re there every Sunday and she says, ‘They’ve taken to having kippers for Sunday breakfast and have fresh fish for Sunday dinner as well.’
‘Simon’s wonderful stall is so popular we have to arrive by 9.40 at the latest in order to be near the front of the queue and quite a lot of us have formed a sort of fan club!

As popular as Simon is, we try to stop people queuing for fish before the market starts because the market is still being set up.

Galileo Farm meat display

Some of the producers who were at the first market are very much with us; Hurdlebrook’s unpasteurised dairy stall, Harvest Moon free range eggs and poultry, Old Hall Farm rare breed meat and many more.
Asparagus and soft fruit grower Michael Bourne from New Park Farm was at the first market; I catch him on a freezing cold day in May, despairing of his asparagus;
‘It’s been a brilliant opportunity to present our product to people in central London.
‘We’ve made some good friends over the years, nice people who continue to come back to us. We rely on the business, it’s been a spectacular success, long may it continue’.

Then as now, the majority of customers come from within a mile of the market. Maida Vale, Marylebone Road, Portland Place and Baker Street, although the market has always attracted a wider population from further afield. Over 50% of people walk to the market. Tourists come, but the market remains rooted in the community. John Tydeman lives on Great Tichfield Street. He’s recommended the market to lots of neighbours and loves the fresh fish, organic and free range meat, wide selection of vegetables and farm produce.

Millwhite Cider

Another local customer is Hugh Aldous from Chiltern Street. I asked him how important the market is to him;
‘It’s serious shopping for superb fresh food every Sunday. Two excellent fish stalls run by fishermen with fresh fish and crustacea – the quality and flavour of their fish is unbeatable anywhere. An excellent game stall in the autumn and winter: partridge, teal, mallard, pheasant, woodcock, and pigeon the year round. Excellent breads and focaccia, fresh pies, huge range of vegetables, several good direct meat suppliers, sausages, cakes and a stall of freshly cooked French recipes. Flowers to cheer the week.’

Rosebie Morton English roses

Local people arrive as the market bell rings at 10am to fill their baskets with seasonal potatoes from The Potato Shop, talk to the farmers selling free range meat and poultry. They select seasonal vegetables from Manor Farm & Perry Court, succulent fruit from Kentish growers, organic veg from Edwin Broad, hand-made cheese from our dairy farmers, the freshest salad leaves from Wild Country Organics and biodynamic vegetables and fruit from Akiki Organics.

Rose Lachman-Brown from Upper Wimpole Street is a member of the Marylebone Association;

‘The market offers so much more than the supermarkets, especially in the way of game and seafood (as well as homemade cake!). We have always eaten good quality food but, shopping at the market, we know exactly where it comes from.’

Edgebank Organics

Whenever there is a rumour of a possible market closure, people are quick to rally round and show support. Westminster knows how important the market is to the locality. We’re not going anywhere.

Rose echoes this; ‘It’s a focal point for the community. It would be a great loss, especially to the small shops nearby.’

She adds;
‘I would like to say that I appreciate that many of the stallholders get up very early and work through all weathers and I am happy to support a person such as that.
I’d like to give a special mention for the Old Hall Farm stall who are always entertaining and knowledgeable. I’m looking forward to buying more asparagus this weekend!’

Todd Cameron Clarke, Old Hall Farm holding Raymond Blanc captive

Basma Alharthy has been living in Marylebone since 2007. She’s reflective about the market;
‘It quickly became an integral part of my life and introduced many positive changes. The market was one of the ways I escape my busy schedule. It offers the opportunity to buy your weekly vegetables and fruits from a known and trusted source, but that’s not only it. For me it was a window to what the land I have been living in has to offer. I became familiar with what is seasonal and the small chats with the farmers has always been rich and my knowledge about the produce has been enriched.’

Sundays became “Lobster Sundays” because of the lobsters we buy, and we call the salad bought from the market the “magic salad” it’s infused with the taste of mustard and lemon you don’t need dressing!’

The Windrush Dairy family

It’s such a wonderful gift to have helped to transform a neighbourhood. I’m fully aware that this piece is fulsome in its praise but very little negativity emerged when researching. We’ve always done our best to remain popular with our neighbours and support the communities we’re privileged to work in.
Patricia Michelson at La Fromagerie has been a hugely supportive friend of the market. She says;
‘The Farmer’s Market has, from the very beginning become an integral part of Marylebone. It is talked about, visited by many and admired by all. The producers may come and go but the seasons’ produce are the example for all of us to follow and live by.

Everyone involved in the market from the hard working team who run it to the producers should be congratulated on being a happy bunch in fine and foul weather, and for showcasing gorgeous produce right in the centre of the greatest city in the world, London, and bringing a bit of the country for us each week!’

Chegworth Valley juice bottles

On the 23rd June, a week after The Marylebone Fayre we held a celebration picnic at the farmers’ market.  The rain held off. We had deck chairs, picnic blankets and picnic tables. Free Punch and Judy. Free games. Ice cream from Sorbitium, a beef roast from organic Galileo Farm. And cake which was cut by the Lord Mayor of Westmister, manager Louise and some of the original producers.

We shared a delicious  vibrant flecked green courgette cake from Ann Adams and a wonderful goats cheesecake from Windrush Dairy.

Mark Field MP and the Lord Mayor of Westminster fighting over the goat cheese cake

Farmers, producers, customers, local shops,  Howard de Walden Estate and Westminster Council; we all share in the success of the market; Thank you to everyone who’s helped to make it possible. Here’s to the next ten years.