Marsh samphire grows on muddy, sandy flats, often around estuaries and tidal creeks and as you can imagine from the location it has a delicious salty taste. Rock samphire is harder to acquire and a risky product to harvest as it tends to grow high up on cliffs. Because it’s a succulent it has a satisfying crunch, raw or cooked. You’ll find it at market from now until September but earlier is better before the flowers have time to form and it grows fibrous.
The name Samphire is commonly thought to be a corruption of "Saint Pierre" - St. Peter - the patron saint of fishermen because fishermen took it to sea to ward off scurvy. Other less common names include sea fennel. The fleshy stems can be eaten raw but it’s delicious steamed, buttered and served as a partner with fish.