Queen of Markets: Grainger Market

I moved to Sunderland in the early 1980’s. The chill North-East wind cut through my soft southern skin, and even the seagulls seemed to sweep down on us squawking their derision.

It was on Newcastle’s gritty atmospheric quay side and in the beautiful Grainger Market that I felt most at home, and the market enthralled from the first.

I’ve always loved covered markets, and Grainger, with its stained glass and dignified shop fronts is a masterpiece of the understated. We don’t have enough covered markets in this country, certainly not in the centre of cities.

Grainger is in the middle of Newcastle city centre; put into perspective, it’s like finding a covered market building next to Top Shop at Oxford Circus. Barcelona has around 40 covered markets. How many does London have? Markets that cater to ordinary every day shopping I should add. Not enough. Not anywhere nearly enough.

Under its covered porticos Grainger Market caters to the needs of everyone. From locally grown leeks, to dog chews, coltsfoot rock, first communion outfits and rare teas.

There are tripe stalls, opticians, a weighing house (originally for butchers meat, now used by customers)

and most famously, one of Marks and Spencer’s original penny bazaars with the original stained glass.

There is still an air raid shelter underneath the building. Tours started up this year to view the tunnels.

Over the years, I’ve returned to Grainger market each time I’ve revisited Newcastle and I’m always glad to see that it never changes. There are slight signs of gentrification; the quietly wonderful Mmm Quality Foods has settled into Grainger Market as if it belongs there.

Its stock of locally sourced products doesn’t appear to be a threat to the existing stalls. Rather, it’s a welcome addition, especially if it brings new people into the market. People who will stay and shop.

There are

9 butchers

6 green grocers

3 fishmongers

3 newsagents, including the wonderfully named ‘cheap tabs shop’ straight out of Viz.

Coffee specialists, cheese specialists, a hair dresser, a watch mender, a branch of ice cream makers Mark Tony, founded in 1902 , music shops, shoe repairs stationers, florists and more.

The other change I’ve noticed is the rather proud realisation amongst devotees and locals alike that the Grainger arcade is almost unique in the UK. Built by Richard Grainger in 1835, it is one of the oldest covered markets in the UK, still going strong. A market to be celebrated.